an ode to Oaxaca

This is my second time in the colourful city thus far in my travels, having spent some time here on my way to Puerto Escondido and now again on my way back east. 

As I write this, I am sat in a quaint little cafe courtyard, sipping on a black americano and dipping in and out of my book (Pants of Perspective by Anna Nichols). This is one of my favourite activities to do. If sitting in cafes and contemplating life was an Olympic sport, I'm sure I would at least take home a bronze medal. 

For today's topic, I am reflecting on my time in Oaxaca. The first time a few weeks ago, where the city was calm and then now, where the city is full of tourists and Dia de los Muertos is in full swing. I wish I was staying here longer to celebrate the rest of the festival, but due to my typical 'make it up as I go along' fashion, I didn't plan far enough ahead and so everywhere was either fully booked or outrageously expensive. Still, I'm incredibly happy that I could experience some of the festivities.

I have seen SO many parades. Seriously, it feels like everytime I turn a corner there is another crowd of people following a marching band, twirling dancers and gigantic puppets and decorated globes. I do wonder if so much of this is put on for us tourists, but I really don't mind. Just looking around at all the smiling faces and watching people dancing, singing and laughing is pure unbridled joy. It's beautiful moments like this that make me so grateful to be here, especially after spending the last couple of years cooped up inside. 

I can actually here trumpets, drums and firecrackers as I type this, the unmistakable sounds of another parade. Most of the action has taken place around the Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán. I've realised that if you set up camp in the Plaza Santo Domingo and wait long enough, you will be rewarded with music and dancing.

I feel like so amount or combination of words can do this city justice. It is an explosion of colour and life and culture and oh my gosh, the most delicious food. And I say this as a vegan. Seriously, I have eaten so much food here I'm surprised my clothes still fit me. It doesn't help that I have a genuine fear of going hungry, so feel like I need to stop and eat at every restaurant, cafe and bakery I see. 

My favourite place here was Mercado Orgánico La Cosecha, a little organic market with stalls selling produce, as well as many food stands selling traditional Oaxacan cuisine and streetfood. Most of the stalls have vegan options, so you best believe I have eaten my weight in tacos, empenadas, mamelas, tlayudas, chiliqueles and chocolate de agua.

 

Other places I recommend include:

Boulenc - great place for brunch and dinner. The mushroom Bahn-mi was delicious, and I say this as someone with a life-long vendetta against mushrooms.  

Arugula - excellent food for a great price. You can choose a soup, main, small side and glass of agua fresca for around $120 pesos. I really recommend the tacos dorados with mole if they are on the menu! The waitor there is also the kindest, most patient man that graciously put up with my crap spanish.

La Campane - serves lots of clearly marked vegan options. Although not traditional, I ordered the soya spag bol. Sometimes you just need a big plate of spaghetti to sooth your soul. 

Cafébre - a cafe in the centre of town with a quiet, colourful little courtyard. I visited here a couple of times. I found it was a great place to have a quick break from the bustling festivities in the city, and sit with a coffee and snack (cakes, smoothie bowls and bagels). Take your time to read, journal and use the available WiFi without feeling pressured to leave. 

Although I am excited at the prospect of moving on and discovering a new place, I do have a slight twang in the pit of my stomach at the thought of leaving Oaxaca. But, rather than feel sad, I choose to take this as a positive - I'm very lucky to have found somewhere that makes me feel this way, when I am so far from my actual home. I suppose I will just leave a little piece of my heart here.